1. Purchasing bags
Kate Lanphear, Women’s Style Director: We had seen Bottega Veneta models that carried shopping bags in the last seasons, leather versions made to look like paper bags. Karl Lagerfeld also made similar trumpe bags in Chanel. But this season, there were real paper shopping bags or, as was the case in Balenciaga and Moschino, plastic on the tracks.
Nick Haramis, editor in general: Sunnei has just opened a new store in Milan, and when you left the parade, you went out through the store, which was quite intelligent. The models also carried shopping paper shopping bags.
KL: In Moschino, there was a dress made with garbage bags, and another model wore them, which seemed comments about consumerism, while in Sunnei, the bags felt more like a suggestion to buy.
2. Restricted hands
KL: In Luar and Weinsanto, the arms of the models were restricted by garments in twisted positions.
N.H: Almost as if you were doing the «thriller» dance but you didn’t move.
Angela Koh, market editor: In Luar, Raúl López’s inspiration was growing like a gay child locked up and thinking about the gestures of the hands as an implication of homosexuality.
KL: There were also many women walking along the track with their arms crossed. That felt very protective.
3. Clothes back
Patrick Li, creative director: Several collections reflected this cultural moment of scrambled. In the fantastic Givenchy debut of Sarah Burton, there were a couple of meticulously elaborate costumes that were designed to be used back, and Issey Miyake and Hodakova showed some funds as Tops.
KL: In Zomer, the clothes were built intentionally to be used back, jeans with their rear pockets on the front. The show even ran back, starting with a soundtrack of applause. The word that occurred to me was to «rewind» or go back to the clock and do things.
4. Domestic objects
KL: In Zomer, there was a lamp screen hat and a maxi carpet skirt. In Givenchy, a minute was covered with reflected beauty compacts. And in Hodakova, a violin was used as a hat and a drum served as a skirt.
PL: We also saw a watch band dress in Marine Serre.
N.H: In Noir Kei Ninomiya, for the final aspect of the designer, he converted a garment essentially a baby mobile that covered the entire body and intervened while the model walked along the track.
KL: I kept thinking about austerity: the idea of using what you have, like the scene in «The Sound of Music», where Maria makes curtain game.
5. HAIR ALLUAGE
Jameson Montgomery, fashion assistant: We saw hair in several ways, and I think it meant different things in different places. Junya Watanabe cited Cubism as a reference and made me think of how in a portrait of Picasso a part of the body sometimes appears in a surprising place and here, in several looks, the hair became the garment. At first it seemed sheep; Then I realized that they were wigs, which was disturbing.
In Dila Findikogu, there was a look where the hair was spiral around the body of the model. For her, it was a rebel feminine thing.
ALASKA: There is something very primitive about it, using your own hair to cover yourself. It’s a witch.
6. Goth adult
N.H: The duo behind Matières Fécal (fecal matter), Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, are the unofficial protected ones by Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy. They designed clothes that are quite gothic but also, like Rick’s clothes, really precise and high. The tailoring was beautiful.
KL: And the models carried Scandinavian makeup of death metal. It was not like the hot topic –
N.H: Was HAUTE Issue.
KL: Exactly. And we were all excited about Haider Ackermann’s debut in Tom Ford. The inaugural look was a vampino lip, hair with backward and a leather Jacket and pants, but he felt so adult and sophisticated. There was a very sorcerer atmosphere throughout the season and I still ask me if this is a type of protest. The witch’s archetype is particularly political: throughout history, any woman in her possession has been persecuted.
7. Illuminated garments
N.H: In the Japanese brand Anrealage show, the models came out with dresses that looked almost on skyscraper, and half of the show, the garments illuminated with LED. The place was a church, so he felt really beatific. In Sunnei, there was a garment with spelling LED «you are listening to Radio Sunnei.»
KL: We are in the midst of a boom of technology, and these LED clothes felt more relevant than the past iterations. Anrealage’s lights created pictures: could we buy pieces that change impressions depending on our mood or what our neuralinks say? Maybe.
8. Angel wings
KL: There were angel wings full on the track in several shows, including Fécal Matières. They felt as expressions of hope.
N.H: In Undercover, two models came out with wings, one dressed in black and another blank. There was an interaction between those two opposites. I don’t know if that is the Elphaba and Glinda effect.
JM: In Di Petsa, there were angel wings but also swords, so I got a theme of the Holy War of ESO.
PL: But the trend generally feels less Wim Wenders and more linked to protection: Guardian angels.
9. Prosthetic parts of the body
N.H: Duran Lantink’s show opened with a female model that had a six -silicone package and closed with a male model in a bib.
KL: Nick was wiping.
N.H: The most surprising example of the prosthesis tendency for me was the Trompe L’Oeil effect that designer Glenn Martens created in Diesel. A model had a rubber garment that looked not only to a cable sweater, but also the user’s chest underneath. It was a bit grotesque but also strangely beautiful.
KL: It is a surrealist. Not everyone wonders what is real and what is false?
N.H: I also wonder if these representations of the body as clothing are a comment on how much all kinds of bodies are monitored at this time.
10. Giant eyelashes
KL: Those of Vaquera and Marni were so great and spongy.
ALASKA: In Thom Browne, the models carried colorful eyelashes that looked like bird feathers. It was a little more capricious, more costumes.
JM: Both cowgirls and Marni felt a small mod. There has been an underground current of the 60s. Penelope Tree, one of the most popular models of that decade, even walked in a couple of shows this season.
This conversation has been edited and condensed.
